Given that I think the bike has the original primary chain on it, and the drive sprockets are original and about a sharp as a razor, That stuff will be replaced fairly quickly.
The rear wheel sprocket is a 51 tooth unit from the factory. Drag Specialties sells a replacement with 49 teeth that is nickel plated like the OEM and not chrome. (That's hard to find.)
So that will take the final drive ratio from a 23-51 to 23-49. A difference of about 4.1%. Assuming that 3000 RPM = 60 MPH, that gear change will only result in a 2.5 mph increase at the same engine speed.
The transmission sprocket is a 23. That is the largest that was available from the factory, Custom Chrome has up to 26 tooth transmission sprockets. A 25 tooth unit will put the cruising speed at 68 MPH or so. That is probably what I'll end up going with.
So instead of a 23-51, it will have a 25-49. Should even be able to keep the same chain length.
2 comments:
Almost everything is original. Changing the primary chain is the biggest job on the bike. Unless there is a master link. I hadn't thought of that. If not the whole shootin' match has to come out as a unit. And watch for the left hand thread. The big socket is there someplace too. The nut that holds the clutch basket on has a locking tab.
Dad
True. The entire clutch basket has to come out in order to replace the transmission sprocket, so I might as well get new sprockets, chains and a compensating hub while I'm in there. I also found a description of what has to be plugged in the oil pump housing to eliminate the primary oiler. You can then go with a wet/dry clutch pack and run an oil bath instead of having to rely on the ball check keeping the oil out of the case.
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